Geometric, Provocative Attire at NYFW S/S15
Five designers keeping things structured, sexy and a little NSFW
Each fashion week, certain through-lines manifest across disparate designers. Whether it's ready-to-wear or haute couture, wildly imaginative brands touch upon the times—and similarities in mood manifest. This season, a refreshing array of lines incorporated highly geometric, even architectural, styles and patterning—and they all happen to be sexy. There's an element of futurism mixed in with the pin-up power of yesteryears. The following five designers have been on our radar for some time, but stand united in redefining what's next.
Made in NYC, Chromat produces signature architectural cages (as well as lingerie and swimwear). They've already picked up many famous fans—from Madonna to Beyoncé—but despite the mainstream attention, designer Becca McCharen (whose background was architecture and urban design) has been unrelenting in her pursuit for the experimental—and it works. This latest line "Formula 15" was inspired by American artist Sol LeWitt's "Wall Drawing Series" and features 3D-printed elements as well as the incorporation of the wearable tech device the Misfit Shine. All the work is beautiful, transgressive and future forward. And you can actually shop the runway online.
Designer Charles Youssef had his NYC debut this year with "Divided Light," a collection inspired by recessed lighting in architecture and the work of James Turrell. The sleek, sexy looks incorporated a series of geometric tucks and origami-like folds. Angular lines gracefully abut smooth curves—many of which were highlight by light tracks built directly into the garments. There's an elegance to Youssef's work that keeps the vibe classy, while also maintaing allure. Youssef will be available at Barneys in January.
Over a year ago, we were introduced to Ammerman Schlösberg thanks to their VFiles debut. This season, their collection—dubbed "A 1950s Farmhouse Voodoo Ska Christmas"—continued along their path of eccentric, sexy genre-bending attire. Co-founder Elizabeth Ammerman shares with CH that their inspiration pertains to scene: "We envision our girl casting spells in daddy's farm after a late night at the diner." Ammerman Schlösberg's offerings are available online or in-store at Opening Ceremony.
The 25-piece "Moonbathers" collection by Zana Bayne, a New York leather design house, brings bondage into the home and out on the streets. Stars, circles and crisp lines come together to deliver a highly appealing and luxuriant structure. Bayne also has a cult celebrity following, but this self-taught leather worker often wears her owns designs. The brand has been around since 2010 and continues to push the bar forward and upward. Browse and buy Zana Bayne's previous collections online.
Somehow Pyer Moss founder and designer Kerby Jean-Raymond found a way to make men's sportswear both fashion forward and truly attractive. The brand's been around since 2013 and, this season, highly geometric patterning and color lead to extraordinary activewear. Jean-Raymond cites sci-fi films (from the '90s) as his inspiration, specifically Terminator II, Total Recall and Back to the Future Part II—but he manages to blend in an element of luxury and class. Previous Pyer Moss collections are available online.
Ammerman Schlösberg images by Paolo Musa, all other images courtesy of respective brands