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Orkney DGL by Denham
Italian naval blankets and deadstock linen in an upcycled coat from Denham
by Josh Rubin
on 14 September 2012
Orkney-Jacket-1.jpg

Found recently in a London boutique, the Orkney DGL jacket by Denham is an outerwear piece with a fascinating story. Denham—a Dutch studio focused on denim products—keeps a substantial archive of vintage clothing and sourced the design from a number of styles, although the most immediate influence comes from a Swedish winter army coat. Constructed from cut and repurposed vintage French linen slipcovers and deadstock Italian naval blankets from the 1960s, the jacket's rare textiles come from an archive discovered by Denham at War & Peace, a massive annual military vehicle and collector fair held in Kent, England.

In throwback form, the linen was dip-dyed, hand-wrung and flat-dried into an over-dyed, deep blue. The heavyweight navy blankets, which still bear military motifs, make up the jacket lining. Toggle closures tethered with linen decorate the cuffs and are used to secure the front flap. The overall aesthetic—highlighted by a fishtail in the back—bridges contemporary outerwear with classic military regalia.

A reflection of the rarity of the fabrics and care taken in its construction, the Orkney DGL is priced at €1,200. Denham also offers identical designs in different fabrics in black and army green for €549.90.

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